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No Dripping, Leaking or Spraying of sea water into the bilge as the conventional “stuffing box” – cruise without concern of the packing nut or check nut loosening.

The “Cast Bearing Bronze” housing is made for direct replacement of a “stuffing box” and maintains concentricity of the lip seals to the shaft.

No adjustments needed!  Cruise with this maintenance-free shaft seal for many years.

No water needed for cooling – A self-contained oil supply lubricates the seals, shaft and bearing surfaces with almost no friction or wear.  The oil level can be visually checked in the reservoir.

The oil seals, selected for this use, have a proven history in machinery, automobiles, aircraft, etc. – there are similar seals in your boat engine, transmission, pumps and accessories.  This propeller shaft seal design was developed using existing, proven technology.

Feel comfortable leaving your boat unattended for long periods of time.  There will be no dripping of water into your bilge.  The bilge pump will not pump oily water from the bilge, which can result in a fine.

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Installation Instructions Chapter 1 of 5

Installation Instructions Chapter 1 of 5

Installation Instructions Chapter 2 of 5

Installation Instructions Chapter 2 of 5

Installation Instructions Chapter 3 of 5

Frequently Asked Questions?

HOW LONG WILL THE SEAL LAST?

Tests have shown that 1000 hours can be expected. After that, a slight wetting of oil on the lip seals with an occasional drop can be seen. Some users prefer to put an oil absorbent pad under the seal unit to monitor any leakage.

WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM RPM THE SEALS CAN RUN?
Most propeller shafts do not exceed the RPM listed below at cruising speeds.

 

The lip type seals being used in the NORSCOT seal are rated at 3 times this RPM*

SHAFT DIAMETER
RPM*
1″
4071
1 1/2″
2714
2″
2035
3″
1357
DOES THE SHAFT SEAL HOUSING GET HOT?

During the first 10 to 20 hours of running the temperature could reach 150 deg. F. After run-in the temperature will stabilize at 120 deg. F. or less. The seals are capable of operating at 325 deg. F.

WHY DO YOU SUGGEST PUTTING A CHAMFER ON THE COUPLER END OF THE SHAFT?

This is standard practice for shafts using lip-type seals, so that a special tool is not required. We still advise using the installation tool that is provided, even when the shaft has the proper taper or chamfer.

IS THERE ANY LEAKAGE OF OIL?

There are no two installations that are identical, but some oil can be expected to weep out under the two rear seals. This is desired for positive lubrication of these seals. The oil level in the reservoir could lower as much as 1″ after 100 hours of cruising.

The front seal should not “weep” or drip into the bilge for several hundred hours of running unless the shaft is worn, scratched or marred from previous use. Relocating the seal (plus or minus 1/8″ or so) on the shaft will usually remedy this.

There should be no weeping of oil when the shaft is not turning.

 

HOW CAN I BE SURE THE UNIT WILL FIT PROPERLY OF THE SHAFT?

After the shaft has been chamfered, de-burred on the keyway, and finished with an emery cloth per the instructions, the seal housing should be lubricated internally and slid on the shaft, making sure it slides and rotes freely.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO INSTALL THE SEALS?

The shaft seal installation takes no longer than a conventional stuffing box, and does not require any adjusting after installation.

HOW DO I ORDER?

You can view the parts & kits list with prices here